Cooler Master Seidon 120V Test and Review

Several years ago Cooler Master was offering AIO water cooling system series called Aquagate featuring a few models, which back in the days were interesting products only for experienced and enthusiastic users, which at one moment went to EOL status until a year ago, when Cooler Master returned to the AIO segment with the Seidon series. The first model of the series, which I have already tested a few months ago was Cooler Master Seidon 120m offering very easy to use and install features, combined with really good performance while working at very low noise level and at very decent price on the market. Later the series was expanded with two more all-in-one models called 240m and 120XL. Even so, that wasn’t enough for Cooler Master and they’ve decided to push the competition by offering a new model to expand the series called Cooler Master Seidon 120V, offering a similar performance and features at a bit lower price. Enough with the history lesson, it is time to do some reviewing and if everything is alright, some testing…
| Front panel | Back panel |
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Cooler Master Seidon 120V arrived to me in a completely new type of package made from recycled carton paper with very compact dimensions. Of course, on the front panel of the box there is a big picture of the product itself and some of the main technical details related to the product, while the full technical specification, some pictures and explanation of the technologies used so this product can be created are written on all of the other sides of the box.
I believe it is time to put the box aside and after I opened the package this is what I saw. The product was disassembled and all of the parts carefully placed inside special compartments inside a paper shaped “bed” to protect and deliver the AIO to its future user in perfect condition. This is how it should be done…
After I spent some minutes taking all of the additional accessories accompanying Cooler Master Seidon 120V from their packages and arranging them for taking some pictures this is the view I got.
The standard package offers:
- Installation and warranty guides
- Mounting brackets needed for installing on Intel platforms including a backplate combined for both platforms
- Mounting brackets needed for installing on AMD platforms including a backplate combined for both platforms
- A lot of screws and nuts for installing the AIO on both Intel and AMD sockets
- 8 long bolts needed to attach the fan to the radiator and 4 shorter bolts required to install the radiator to the case fan slot
- The standard thermal compound provided with all of the CPU coolers from Cooler Master.
- One 120mm Cooler Master Blade Master fan
I believe the time to check the AIO water cooling system itself has arrived.
After I took all of the parts out of the carton bed the first thing which drew my attention is the new, a bit changed water block, which for this model is square, while for all of the other Seidon models it is round. That’s actually new but seems that Cooler Master Seidon 120V offers a pretty standard structure for an all-in-one water cooling system featuring of course a cooling plate with the pump attached to it, a cooling radiator, 2 x tubes, cooling fan and the mounting kit. Of course, to do a proper review I will check them all one by one.
So let’s get started…
Cooling radiator
| Slim radiator design | A 120mm fans compatible |
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Cooler Master Seidon 120V offers a cooling radiator made of aluminum entirely painted in black with a slim design and dimensions of 154 x 119 x 27 mm, which can be used with up to two 120 x 25 mm fans installed on both sides of the radiator. The standard package of the AIO offers just one 120mm BladeMaster fan, which can be installed on the radiator via 4 long bolts and the radiator can be installed to a 120mm case fan slot with 4 shorter bolts on the back or top of every middle or full ATX modern case. The standard package doesn’t offer an additional fan and additional 4 longer bolts so a second fan can be installed but I don’t think this is much of a problem if someone decided to boost the AIO performance with push-pull setup.
Cooling plate together with the pump forming the water block and the tubes
| The waterblock seen from above | The cooling plate |
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Cooler Master Seidon 120V offers a square, very well-milled entirely made of copper contact plate with the water pump attached to the back side and both of the parts are secured with ten bolts for leak-free operation and to guarantee the build quality. The copper contact plate with the water pump attached are covered with a square, painted in black matte plastic cover with the Cooler Master logo engraved on the top part. If I remember right, beneath the Seidon 120m cap there was a small PCB with a blue led, so I expect there will be one for Seidon 120V too . We will find out a bit later.
Maybe you have already noticed but on the four corners of the plastic cap there are four pins which are actually made to secure the mounting bracket in place when the water block is installed on the motherboard.
As usual, the connection between the water block and the cooling radiator is done by two ribbed and very flexible tubes meant to provide nice and smooth installation inside the case. Of course, the tubes are completely black, which will make them stay neutral in every modern case.
As you can see from the pictures above the water pump is powered and regulated by a not very long 3-pin cable and connector, coming out of the water block, which when working at maximum speed consumes up to 3.6W and is rated to be working with maximum noise level of <23 dBA. Again, very typical for the Seidon models is that the fan is powered and regulated by a separate 4-pin PWM cable and connector. And by saying the fan….
Cooling fan
Cooler Master Seidon 120V is equipped with just one 120 x 25 mm Cooler Master Blade Master fan working at 600~2400 ± 10% revolutions per minute range (PWM powered and regulated) with airflow level range of 19.17 ~ 86.15 CFM ± 10%, static level range of 0.31 ~ 4.16 mm H2O ± 10% at noise level range of 19 ~ 40 dBA.
As I’ve said before, to install the fan on the radiator the 4 longer bolts will be needed and to install the radiator with the fan on a 120mm case fan slot the 4 shorter bolts will be needed. Of course, Cooler Master Seidon 120V can handle a second fan in push-pull setup but then 4 additional longer bolts will be required. Unfortunately, they are not included in the package.
Mounting kit
According to the official technical details, Cooler Master Seidon 120V is equiped with mounting kits for all of the latest Intel and AMD sockets including:
- Intel LGA 2011 / 1366 / 1150 /1155 / 1156 / 775
- AMD Socket FM2 / FM1 / AM3+ / AM3 / AM2
Of course, for doing the tests I will have to use the AMD brackets and these are the parts needed so the AIO can be installed on the motherboard:
Now let’s start assembling the mounting kit.
So far I’ve tested many Cooler Master products and all of them required some skills and a lot of imagination while securing the backplate to the motherboard and here we can see a much smarter and easier to work installation mechanism. And this is how we should do it.
| Four bolts installed | The mounting kit assembled |
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The first thing to do is to put the long bolts through the backplate and carefully secure them in place with the four plastic parts and later just fasten the mounting bracket with the 4 nuts. Of course, while holding the water block itself.
And this is what my motherboard looks like with the backplate installed:
I believe I am done with the review of the water cooling system and all of its parts and now it is time for testing. And to do the tests I have to install the AIO on the motherboard and back inside my case, but first I want to describe the system I am going to use.
Test rig:
CPU: AMD Vishera FX-8350
- At standard frequency 4.020 MHz (at 1.356V)
- At low overclock frequency of 4.220 MHz at 1.380V)
- At medium overclock frequency of 4.420 MHz (at 1.416V)
- At high overclock frequency of 4.720 GHz (at 1.452V)
Motherboard: GigaByte 990FXA-UD3
Video card: Sapphire 5830 Extreme 1GB DDR5 256bit
Memory: 2 x 4GB Geil Black Dragon 1866 MHz
Hard drive: Kingston SSD SV100S264G
Case: SilverStone Raven RV-03
Power supply: Antec HCP-750W
Cooler: Cooler Master Seidon 120V
Thermal paste: Gelid GC-Supreme
Fan mounted:
- 2 x SilverStone AP181 – 180mm fans on the bottom panel putting fresh air in and spinning at about 1200 rpm
- 120mm fan behind the motherboard and spinning at about 1000 rpm
- Room temperature of about 18 degrees.
Both of the SilverStone AP181 – 180mm fans were connected together to the chassis 2 connector and were rotating at maximum speed.
Testing procedure:
I will install Cooler Master Seidon 120V on the top panel do stress tests at standard frequency of 4.020 GHz (at 1.356V), at low overclock frequency of 4.220 GHz (at 1.380V), at medium overclock frequency of 4.420 GHz (at 1.416V) and at high overclock frequency of 4.720 GHz (at 1.452V) using just the standard 120mm Cooler Master Blade Master fan provided with the AIO system rotating at maximum speed.
Mounting procedure:

This is what the AIO looks like after I installed the radiator with the pull fan on the top of the chassis.
| The system ready for the tests | With left panel installed |
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Now let’s check out the test results:
| Cooler Master Seidon 120V @4020MHz 1.356V | Cooler Master Seidon 120V @4220MHz 1.380V |
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| Cooler Master Seidon 120V @4420MHz 1.416V | Cooler Master Seidon 120V @4720MHz 1.452V |
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All of the test results have been summed up in the following charts:
And the fans speed measured during the tests:
After I am done testing I believe it is time to share my conclusions:
1. Cooler Master Seidon 120V performance:
After a few hours of unpacking the AIO and all of the additional accessories, arranging them for taking pictures, installing and finally after I’ve finished testing I can say that Cooler Master Seidon 120V is one really interesting and very well-performing budget AIO water cooling system made to provide reliable and stable performance for a long time, guaranteed by its build quality and features. A truly honorable product to expand the series. The cooler itself offers a slim 27 mm thick radiator design, cooled by a really fast and very good performing fan, and after I’ve finished the tests with my really hot AMD FX-8350 I can recommend this AIO to be used in every modern rig cooling all kinds of processors at default or even overclocked frequencies without any problem. It will definitely handle the load, unfortunately by sacrificing the noise.
Apart from that, while I was testing the cooler both the fan and the pump were powered by a 4-pin Y-splitter directly to the CPU header on the motherboard and when they were set to maximum speed both were very loud. In fact, I was able to hear the pump and the fan working at more than one meter distance. After I’d finished testing and set both the fan and the pump to be auto controlled they were pretty quiet most of the time. And here I should point out something which is very important. If both the pump and the fan are connected to the same CPU fan slot on the motherboard with a 4-pin PWM Y-splitter and inside the BIOS the fan control is set to PWM then the pump will work at maximum speed since it is with just a 3-pin cable and connector and will be very loud. If it is set to Voltage control then the pump will work at very low noise level and will increase its speed only when there is a high load on the processor.
2. Cooler Master Seidon 120V appearance:
What can I say… The cooler looks neutral to the whole system with its really clean and stylish design when installed inside the case. The completely black setup with just one blue LED under the water block cap boosts the overall visual appearance of the whole system. Very nice… very nice, indeed!
Official price (MSRP) for Cooler Master Seidon 120V: 37.73 euro
Official warranty: 24 months
I thank Cooler Master for the test sample.


























Two seidon’s and both of them are having issues with ticking, damn annoying, will get another another brand soon, unfortunately.
Did not felt like RMA to RMA it, because that would mean spending 1/4th of the actual cost of those coolers. It’s ok, but the ticking is annoying
Hi I bought this cooler from Amazon for $49.99 and it replaced an ASUS Silent Square EVO that i had on a phenom 2 x 4 955BE but i upgraded to a FX-6300BE and could not resist trying my first water cooler and i have to say i am in love with it i have an Asrock 970 Pro 3 R2.0 board and a NZXT atx case that has 2 140mm fans that came with it and slots for 6 more fans in the case and i overclocked my FX-6300 to 4MHz and even after running Prime95 for hours my temp never went over 45C and as far as the noise is not an issue at all if its real quiet in my house i still really only hear the case fans which are mounted on the top of the case but i really like your idea of having it mounted up there and i guess now it comes with the extra fan bolts for mounting another fan on it mine came with 8 and with plunging it in i have a 4 pin CPU fan header and a 3 pin CPU fan header and i connected it like it said and i in bios i have 1 control that sets both cpu1 and cpu2 headers to run full speed or to set it to the target temp i want my CPU to run at like 45C min to i think 90C max but since i overclock i just set it to run at full speed always but i loved your review and the reason i couldn’t pass it up for that price were all the great user reviews of people who had bought it and I have to say if you thinking about buying a liqued cooler for the $50 its well worth it
Hello mate and thanks for the kind words. I am really happy that my article help you with your choice and that you enjoy the product and it is working fine for you.
Hello Jai,
I don’t recommend using different fans because:
If one of the fans is rotating slower or is with lower airflow level this will be bad for the overall performance. For example if you put the slower fan as push fan on the radiator and the Blade Master fan as pull you will lose the static pressure of the original fan. If you put the Blade Master fan as push fan, the back one will act like 1/3 barrier for the air coming out of the fins.
I think you can find to purchase additional Blade Master fan everywhere and it is pretty cheap one
@MiaHeatFan
Pretty nice. That was good information. Thanks for sharing it with us.
Best Regards
For a push pull configuration can I use unmatched fans? For example use the existing exhaust fan of my case along with the cpu fan from the 120v? Will this reduce the noise considerably?
Aritc Silver 5* not Artic Cooling (on my previous post) sorry!
I have one of these and here is my review: I purchased a 120v and connected with ease. I ran the stock fan (alittle loud) but then replaced it with a GELID Solutions FN-FW12PL-18 120mm Green Fan. OMG SILENT and VERY COOL. Running 35C on AMD Phenom 2 x4 @ 3.5 with Artic Cooling. Changed the Thermal Paste to Artic MX4 and added a case fan. Now temps are at 28c!!! Love this cooler, its silent (with the fan replacement) and runs really cool. Max load for me is 48c very very nice. I would recmmend this to anyone looking for a good AIO cooler.
Hello Dan,
I can’t say exactly because:
1. I always change the coolers so I can’t really compare the AIO with Air cooler. And I never thought doing it. But you can always look at my other reviews, see the temperature results, see the ambient temperature and do a simple calculations to make the delta temps and just compare it.
2. When I do the tests I always show the maximum performance of the cooler with the current processor. For that reasons all fans are working at maximum speed inside the case, which boost a bit the overall cooling inside the case.
Best Regards
P.s. Reading the full article, not just the results will give you better vision of the details
This is a nice test but you don’t say what temperatures the rig ran with standard air cooling. How much lower does the water cooling make the temperature?
sir, i already bought this one, and i have 1 question, is it already water inside the cooler? or should i fill the water cos it not already inside? thx
Hello Andrew,
This all in one water cooler is pre-filled with cooling liquid.
All you ñeed to do is to install and use it.
Best Regards
Thanks for the good words,
We are trying to do the best and real reviews possible.
Seems we kinda achieve that goal…
Best Regards
Beautiful images with graph you have posted in your blog.Your blog is extremely brilliant especially the quality content is really appreciable.
Hello Chris and welcome to DVTests.com,
thanks for the comment and for the valuable information.
I am 100% sure it will be very useful to the 120V users.
Best Regards
I have this cooler for my 4170 FX.. The thing works great. they even gave me 8 long black bolts so hooking up another fan was possible right out of the box. I know this is not the norm but thanks any way cooler master. For all those people whom are having loud pump noises listen up.. the pump must be plugged into the power fan socket because it runs at 12 volts all the time. If you hook it up to chassis fan you will most likely have to manually set the power to 100% constantly. failure to do this is what causes the pump rattling noise bc it needs full power to run properly. cheap price and wayy better than rice, two thumbs up.
Hello and welcome to DVTests.com,
First I want to congratulate you for doing tests and I will do my best helping you choosing a testing rig.
I am not very familiar with intel overclock and reasonable temps and settings but i have some experience with AMD.
When Fx-8350 is at default frequency with full load it is about 120-130W. When it is at 4.7 gHz with full load it reach up to 220-230w. At this moment all small and average coolers fails. Only the big ones can handle to keep it cool. Check all reviews which i did starting with U14s test using fx-8350. It makes even Aio to have hard time. The water inside the loop gets really hot.
Best Regards
Hi!
I would just like to ask is the FX 8350 good for cooler testing? Is there hot air coming out of the coolers? I have owned a 1366 platform with OC-ed i7-930 and hot air was blasting out of the heatsinks when CPU temperatures were high. Recently i have switched to i7 4770K and its terrible. CPU shows near 100°C and lukewarm air is coming out of the heatsink. I can leave my finger on the base of the cooler and its not even warm. I have tested the Seidon 120V and i got pretty bad results (same as 212 Evo). Dont know did i get a bad sample i its the Haswell IHS messing it all up. I am considering to get a seperate CPU kuler testing rig based on the FX 8350.
Thanks!
Hello Third and welcome to DVTests.com
About your question I don’t think I should compare both AIO since I never had the chance to test and review any corsair product. Apart from that i don’t know the system setup nor the price range you are interested in.
Sir, can you recommend this AIO vs the Corsair h60?..BTW, great review…Got me a little convinced but is still undecided….if you can recommend another cooler of the same price range that would be great…thanks
I believe only the manufacturer can confirm the first part of your question. You can contact CM support. I used this AIO only for a week or two at Voltage control and didnt had any problems.
A header with just 3 pins cant be PWM.
The only way to confirm this is to do some personal tests with your setup. All mobos which i have are with just one header for cpu fan so i have no idea what is this support fan header.
thanks for your reply…
Is it safe to set the pump to VOLTAGE method? i read somewhere if you connect the pump to the CPU_OPT fan header (my pump is currently connect to) it could damage the pump because the pump must operate at full speed all the time, people recommend to connect the pump straight to the PSU or 3-pin CHA_FAN or PWR_FAN is that true can you confirm please.
Or does the CPU_OPT fan header works same as CHA_FAN or PWR_FAN since all 3 headers are 3-pin? or CPU_OPT fan header is controlled by CPU_FAN?
My bios fan setting looks like this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jMtxbmhVRNI
Hello again and sorry for the late reply…
Let me describe you the situation.
When i first did the test I connected both the fan and the pump to the 4 pin CPU connector on my motherboard using an Y-splitter. From the BIOS first I set the control method to:
PWM and the pump was noisy all the time because it was rotating at maximum speed. Only the fan was PWM controlled.
Later I tried to set it to VOLTAGE method and then the pump became less noisy but was increasing its speed when there was a load on the CPU.
Both the fan and the pump were controlled according to the CPU sensor.
Anyway I don’t know what settings your mobo has but you can try connect the fan to the 4 pin PWM CPU header and control it with PWM mode and connect the pump to a case fan header and control it using the Voltage method. But in that case the pump will be controlled by the case sensors and not the CPU sensor.
Thanks for your reply.
I did read the full article but I’m a beginner and too naive since this is my first build and experience. My mobo is the asrock z68 fatal1ty gen3, yesterday I figured out how to control the fan rpm but still didn’t figure how to control the pump. correct me if I’m wrong, if the pump is connected to the 3 pin CPU_FAN it means it’s voltage controlled and voltage controlled means it will auto increase its speed only when there is a high load on the processor, right?
You mentioned “If it is set to Voltage control the pump will work at very low noise level and will increase its speed only when there is a high load on the processor”. from what i understand voltage control is the 3 pin CPU_FAN and the voltage will be controlled automatically or I have you change or set something in the BIOS first?
Sorry if I’m asking too many questions, like I said before I’m a beginner and I don’t understand everything yet.
Thanks again.
@Colm
Hello and welcome. I am sorry for the late reply…
Hyper 212 Evo is a wonderful cpu cooler with great perf/noise/price balance. Seidon 120v is great perf/price deal too, unfortunately it is a bit noisy. Anyway I believe both will handle FX6300 but if u OC u will need better cooling performance and will sacrifice the noise.
@idahludba
Hello and welcome to you too.
I hope you read the full article. I explained my experience with the fan and the pump control. Check it again because I have no idea what mobo and bios settings you are using to give you hints.
About the screws you should remount the Aio cooling block with all screws. One of them missing will reduce the contact pressure with the CPU and will result a higher temps.
I’m new to the AiO water cooling kits and i need your help, I have the Cooler Masters Seidon 120v water cooling system, i want to know how to control the pump voltage to reduce noise?
The pump is connected to the 3 pin CPU_FAN2 on the motherboard and the fan is connected to the 4 pin CPU_FAN1.
One more thing, one of the 4 screws which I secured on my intel bracket seems to be little off position not like the rest 3 screws, but the pump seems to be secured!, is it ok or should i try to unscrew the bolt and secure it again?
Thanks
Hey, I’ve ordered a CM Hyper EVO and it’s taking ages to get, should I cancel my order and get a CM Seidon 120v? I’m getting a FX-6300 CPU and I’m not going to overclock a lot. I love the idea of having a water cooled CPU
but if the EVO is worth the wait could you let me know please. Thanks, Colm.
Hello and welcome,
I have to agree with you about the rattle noise. After all this is the cheapest AiO on the market so I was expecting some issue and seems that was the noisier pump. Ofcourse if this Aio is working with not so powerful Cpu the pump will be much quieter.
I’ve got this cooler on a 3820k. The rattle is incredibly annoying, random, and only an OS restart fixes it—though only temporarily. Cooling performance is fine, but the rattle ruins it for me. Would not buy again.
Hi again,thank you for your quick reply…
Well my main fear is that the closer the tubes are to a hot surface,the coolant will raise in temperature,
but I’m just propably a little paranoid I guess..Anyway my new gpu will be a lot cooler than the old one,
and I’ve already decided on a push-pull fan system,but for the life of me,I cant seem to be able to find the
correct long screws for the 2nd fan on the radiator..
Hello John and welcome to http://www.DVTests.com,
Thanks for the question, which I believe it is pretty interesting and I hope I will be able to help you with that information.
So far I already tested few water coolers from different manufacturers, which you can find here http://dvtests.com/?cat=1400 and in all of their installation manuals the AIO were showed to be installed with the tubes on the bottom side. I believe you should follow the official instructions because before every product is released there are a lot of tests to provide the best possible way for a product to be used. Of course all of the manufacturers offers the best way to use a product without the need of RMA so I think you should follow the official information.
Personally I don’t think that there is a much of a difference but after all I am using the AIOs according to the official manuals because I am using the test samples for a short period of time. In a longer aspect if you install it a in a wrong way it may reduce the life of the water pump, which is just my thoughts.
Anyway from what you wrote I believe you are afraid not to break the tubes because of the heat from the VGA… I think they are made to handle much higher temperature but this only Cooler Master can confirm.
Best Regards
Hello,great and thorough review..
I have a question about the radiator tubes..Seeing an official coolermaster video about the 120V,it was said that the tubes have to be on the bottom side of the radiator when mounting it on the back exaust side of the case..Does that really matter,though?Looking at a lot of builds on the net,people don’t always do that..If it doesn’t affect anything i would rather have the radiator positioned with the tubes on top , because in my current micro-atx build,the tubes are directly above the gpu which is very hot(asus radeon 5770).I will change the gpu anyway with a newer one,but i was wondering if the position of the radiator/tubes affect any of the cooling properties of the 120V..
Hello and welcome.
I am sorry for the late reply.
I can’t really compare them because I didn’t made direct test between both of the coolers. Anyway I believe that seidon 120v will perform just a little bit better and if you have some additional cash you can go for 120m or 120xl.
I also have an 8350 and looking for a cooler. How does this cooler compare to the CM Hyper 212 evo or CM Hyper 212x?
I ddnt experienced the “rattling sound” of the pump..(or just go lucky with this cooler..:D)..some reviews said that the noise will be gone soon.. when it comes to a noticeable noise on a closed case, we can always change to lower RPMs, and still get the performance or change the fans soon..:D. Still the best Cash/Performance closed-loop IMO..:D
Thanks for the advice I’m still not sure. I like the CM Seidon 120V the Corsair Hydro H60 and the Scythe Kabuto 2.
If you are looking for a silence I dont think this is the best option. Nor ac i30 co. Maybe think of noctua u14s.
I have one more question or two
I was going to get an Arctic I30 CO for my 4670k but I would be interested in the CM Seidon 120V. If the 120V is better at cooling and the fan noise is not so intolerable in a close case. Whats your suggestion?
Have this cooler previously owned a Seidon 120m (until it leaked onto my PSU mind you..) and wont lie, the performance is almost identical on my 3570k @4.2GHz but now this 120v has a problem where whenever I change it to the lowest pump and fan speed, it starts rattling and is very noticeable…And this is the cooler I just got from an RMA on my 120m…
Is the CM Seidon 120V fan louder than the Corsair Hydro H60? By the way nice review.
Hello and welcome
To be honest I never tested corsair product but I expect that blademaster will be louder than the corsair fan, but much better performing one.
Thanks for the good words and I am happy that the review was useful to you.
A very helpful review .. i’ve purchased one, and indeed a decent cooler.. keeps my fx-6 cooler than my 212..:D..but both are good products! kip it up CM!
Thanks for the response (and great review too !).
I checked with CM. Apparently the tubing on the 120V is exactly the same as previous Seidon generations. The tubing specs are:
Outer diameter: 8.1mm
Inner diameter: 5.8mm
Thickness (minimum- Corrugated): 1.15mm
I would have liked it thicker, but that’s more about my paranoia
: There would be no practical gain, FEP is very tough stuff with an insanely low evaporation rate.
Another fun fact, according to CM the Seidon units use an advanced pump (CM sources it from another company) and the whole cooler will “very likely” last for even more than 70000 hours of use (even 24/7 use).
If they’re telling the truth that’s impressive for a budget product- it has very superior longevity to Asetek based coolers (about 50000 hours operation).
Hello and welcome,
That is one really interesting comment, which for sure may lead to many answers and possibly many new questions.
Unfortunately I dont have the first 120M anymore, which I tested before. And for that reason I can’t compare them. I can compare 120V vs Enermax ELC-120TA since both are with slim radiator.
The first Seidon models are really good cooling units and there is no doubt about it. To be honest 120V is actually the first AIO with slim design, which succeeded to keep the FX-8350 even on 4.7GHz. Yes the temps are high but the system was working.
About the tubings, probably you are right they are a bit easier to bend but I can’t confirm if they are thinner without cutting them.
After all this is a budget version so for it’s price it works pretty decent.
Silly question, but do you have a previous generation Seidon (like a 240M, 120M, 120XL) to compare the build quality of the new 120V cooler to ?.
Previous gen Seidon units were pretty good (And apparently are reliable- passing severe stress tests according to CM and having tougher pumps than Asetek units)
It looks like the FEP tubing is thicker on the 120V compared to the previous gen units (a good thing for long term reliability), but I can’t find any statements on it from CM or any other reviews.